{"id":156513,"date":"2025-07-07T16:09:16","date_gmt":"2025-07-07T13:09:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/andriusmazeika.com\/?p=156513"},"modified":"2025-07-10T11:57:10","modified_gmt":"2025-07-10T08:57:10","slug":"cairo","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/andriusmazeika.com\/en\/blog\/cairo\/","title":{"rendered":"Cairo I\u2019d love to return to. Cairo I was relieved to leave."},"content":{"rendered":"<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Being here is like flowing through the veins of humanity. Along with all the forever chemicals, microplastics, and indigestible remnants of fast food. With the loud incessant rush of millions of rag-tag vehicles, and millions of lives walking the tightrope of poverty. Cows standing outside the butcher\u2019s waiting to become dinner. People buzzing at 3AM striving to avoid the same end.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Being here is facing the pre-apocalyptic predicament of modern life. Defying the laws of ecology and sanity the city sprawls in the direction of all four winds. The flow never stops, the growth never seizes. One year it\u2019s an agricultural village, another \u2013 bustling streets fortified with tall unregulated buildings squeezing them from all sides. One day you\u2019re enjoying the view from your apartment on the 4th floor, another \u2013 a six-lane overpass appears within a hand\u2019s reach from your windowsill. The city&#8217;s veins always win, the vessels have to just suck it up.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">However littered the veins, they refuse to get clogged by overarching regulation and European order. The seeming chaos is a natural order only interrupted by the security services. Mind your political views, keep them to yourself, and the natural order won\u2019t be disrupted. Until your business starts doing too well for you to be left alone enjoying its benefits. Then the big guys step in and make an offer you can\u2019t refuse. Share the fruit or perish.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">What you have instead of European order is an unstoppable sense of the flow of millions upon millions of lives. Loud, punchy, and raw. A <\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">LIVE<\/span><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> gig of life if you like. As a long-deceased Egyptian writer once eloquently put \u2013 Egyptians are like catfish, put them in clear water and they\u2019ll die. Consequently, rubbish here isn\u2019t conveniently hidden away or \u201crecycled\u201d, it\u2019s in plain sight. Litter on the streets, trash-grown and trash-flavoured vegetables, trash particles in the air, microplastics in your water and in your cells. No illusions of control or <em>green<\/em> here. A full-on capitalist realism that wreaks of impending doom. Consume till you get consumed. A self-cannibalism that, unlike here in Europe, does not pretend otherwise.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">The irony is that in a country ruled by a military dictatorship one is able to feel more free than back in the so-called free world. Free to hustle, free not to observe the gazillions of rules, free to bribe one\u2019s way out (a right that in Europe is only reserved to the cream of the crop), free to honk to the music while driving. I once heard a scholar pointing out that a medieval serf was objectively more free than the current modern free man of Western democracies. For one simple reason \u2013 the kings and the landlords just didn\u2019t have the tools of control we have now. The feeling in Cairo is very similar \u2013 the kings are busy doing politics and business deals hence the serfs are left to their own devices.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">As a result, the palette of life&#8217;s colours here defies categorisation. It would be like trying to label all the different greens in the jungle. For it is a jungle especially when contrasted with spotless clean and orderly urban streets of Europe. A lush bustling jungle only adhering to its own laws of growth, symbiosis, and cut-throat competition vs a carefully managed minimalist desert constrained by top-down rules and the faulty illusion of control.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Oh how I wished I had visited Cairo sooner. Back when it would have seemed exotic. Back when poverty and lawlessness seemed romantic and anti-system. Back when I wasn\u2019t aware of what orientalism is. Ruined are the belly-dances and snake whisperers for me. Ruined are the marvels of colonial architecture and centennial colonial cafes that to this day provide temporary refuge to an overwhelmed Western folk shocked by the city\u2019s intensity and seeming chaos.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I arrived in Cairo with a cause. A cause that was <a href=\"https:\/\/youtu.be\/Nd-QEnDudBA?si=VL0i9emWoYiq8-SA\" target=\"_blank\" rel=\"noopener\">hijacked and extinguished<\/a>. The tiny camera I had with me (pro gear raises suspicion and is a good way to be turned around at the border) wasn\u2019t meant to tourist around with me or to be pointed at the majesty and eternal mystery of the pyramids. Life happens the way it\u2019s meant to, and all we can do is embrace it. From the time spent among Muslims I seem to have learnt this much \u2013 control is only an illusion. One that we \u2013 westerners \u2013 seem to be more prone to than the Muslims.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Cairo literally blew my mind and even now, weeks later, I struggle to put it into neat shelves of like or dislike. One thing is clear \u2013 it\u2019s not a city, but a world on its own, a force of life. A force so strong that it might in the end extinguish the very life that powers it.<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">I\u2019m typing these lines with trees whispering to the wind, with birds having a townhall gathering around me, and fresh air streaming through my nostrils. Back home, in Lithuania, where the wider world is ever so distant. Does travelling bring us closer to it or the opposite \u2013 only serves to confirm the false notions and preconceptions we had before leaving?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Taromatas<\/span><\/i><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\"> and urban regulation are great ideas, but so is freedom to rely on common sense, freedom to honk your tuk-tuk&#8217;s horn to the beat of music. Can we ever reconcile the two? Can we ever stop measuring which is the better?<\/span><\/p>\n<p><span style=\"font-weight: 400;\">Cairo I\u2019d love to return to.<br \/>\nCairo I was relieved to leave.<\/span><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Being here is like flowing through the veins of humanity. Along with all the forever chemicals, microplastics, and indigestible remnants of fast food. 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